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 Radiator Fan Shroud
Testing the Construction
By: Keith Thompson, May 21, 2002  Print this article

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I suggest the builder mounts all hardware within the case. I used a T line in my water system. This aids in burping any air that is trapped in the closed loop system. You’ll need to test the entire water-cooling system outside of the case for a few hours, checking for any leaks. I used a mixture of distilled water and water wetter. Water Wetter can be purchased at Pep Boys. When bleeding the system try moving the water-cooling system high/low forcing the air to the highest point, that being the T-line.

Sideview of the installation, notice the bleeder with the T-line

Sideview of the installation, notice the bleeder with the T-line


Once the pump is primed leave the cap off the end of the T-line so air has a chance to escape. Make sure that the end of the T-line remains at the highest point in the system. Expect to leave the cap off for a few days so all micro bubbles have a chance to exit the system. When mounting the water block follow the instructions that were supplied and do not forget to use heat transfer paste.

Material Used:

- 2- 1/2" brass threaded barbs, cost $2.49 each.
- 2-24”x1”x1/16 brass flat stock, cost $5.49 each.
- 1- 12”x6”x1/16” brass flat stock, cost $8.49 each.
- 3/4" plywood, cost $3.00 (Home Depot)
- Sandpaper 400 grit, cost $1.00 per sheet
- Solder, cost $3.00
- Flux, cost $2.50

The prices above reflect what I paid at the local hardware store for this project. I would expect that the reader could find the material cheaper from a shop that deals in small brass sizes. Your local hobby shop may even have brass in stock.

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  Introduction
  First step
  Making the Jig
  Making the Four Sides
  Making the Faceplate
  Mounting the Shroud
  Testing the Construction
  Conclusion


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