I did not have any sophisticated equipment to make this item with, just a 40 year old mini lathe, (with no motor), as an X – Y table, and cheap and nasty Wickes pillar drill with the worst chuck I’ve ever come across. At first I attempted to try slot cutting but the equipment was just not up to it so it had to be drilled down, adjoining in a line.
Fig. 5 Drill and milling tool
Fig. 6 Metals
Fig. 7 Copper base
Fig. 8 Final cut
Fig. 9 Finished block, top view
Fig. 10 Finished block, bottom view
Fig. 11 Finished block, disassembled
All final finishing was done with basic tools, time, and elbow grease:-)
I started by cutting out the block that leaves you with a rough edge.
1. I used a basic flat metal file to get the hacksawed edge even.
2. I then used Wet & Dry (wet), starting at about 250 grade and going down to 1200 Grade with various grades in between as required. I do this with the Wet & Dry sheet on a flat surface (glass is good), and move the block on the Wet & Dry, similar to lapping.
3. When it is smooth with the final wet & dry grade, I use T-Cut colour restorer,
(designed for use on car paint that has gone dull or tarnished). When this is done I finish with car polish, (Auto Glym Silicon Resin polish), for that deep shine. Both of these are also done with a cloth flat on the glass and moving the block back and fourth.
4. Once I'm happy with the finish I use white spirit or brake cleaner to remove the polish residue so it can be sprayed with clear cellulose lacquer to prevent the shiny metal tarnishing, You need to build it up in thin coats or it will "ball", "fish eye", or "run" on shiny metal.